“What’s the difference between an island and a shoal?” asked Brad Minnick, the guide on our Clayton Island Tours jaunt through upper New York’s Thousand Islands. My husband and I shrugged.
“Both are surrounded by water, but in this region of the world, the difference is foliage. An island must have at least one tree, which can even be in past tense,” explained Minnick.
The Thousand Islands are actually made up of 1,864 islands (plus lots of shoals) that dot the St. Lawrence River before it meets Lake Ontario. The region stretches to both sides of the river and the border between the United States and Canada slices right through the water.
I had been to Gananoque, on the Canadian side of the Thousand Islands, but this adventure on the other side of the river was new territory. We boarded the tour boat just outside Clayton, a three-hour drive from Toronto.
As we chugged along, the number of Canadian and American flags I spied flying side by side outside island cottages made me smile.
Explore a Castle and a Lighthouse
The number one attraction in all of the Thousand Islands has to be Boldt Castle. Sitting on a speck of rock called Heart Island, the castle was built by hotelier George Boldt whose CV included a stint as manager of New York City’s Waldorf-Astoria hotel. He started constructing the fairy tale abode as a gift for his wife Louise at the turn of the last century. But she died suddenly in 1904 and work ground to a halt. The castle lay vacant until 1977 when the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired it and completed the construction.
Our group unloaded and spent an hour exploring the magnificent property. Walking through bedrooms and ballrooms it was strange to think no one had ever lived here.
Other robber barons of the guilt age built palatial summer homes nearby, and although many have since burned down, we glided by a few magnificent summer homes along what is known as Millionaire’s Row.
The last stop was Rock Island Lighthouse, the first river lighthouse in the United States. Originally commissioned in 1847, it is 50 feet tall. We climbed up to the lantern and checked out the view of the potentially deadly waterway, dotted with rocks just under the surface. Accessible only by boat, the site is a designated state park.
Go for a Cruise at the Antique Boat Museum
Clayton residents describe their daily rituals as “river life.” In summer, this includes swimming, boat racing, and sitting in numerous Adirondack chairs watching the world go by.
It’s no surprise that this watery town should be home to the Antique Boat Museum. Curator Caitlin Playle met us at the entrance and showed us around various galleries crammed with all varieties of watercraft. Mahogany daysailers that you might see the the Kennedy clan zipping about in were housed throughout, as were skiffs, canoes, kayaks, and racing boats. The real show stopper was a 106-foot houseboat called La Duchesse. A hulking square vessel built in 1903 for George Boldt (of the castle fame) it floated outside the museum on the river.
“Later the McNally family of Rand McNally maps bought it. They used it for 50 years as an extension of their summer cottage,” Playle explained.
The original mahogany hull was replaced with steel in 1957. It was getting a bit of an exterior touch-up while we were there. But the inside was ship shape. It had five bathrooms, a dining room with the original fireplace, a living room, 10 bedrooms, and an expansive covered deck for entertaining.
“The McNally family donated to us and we opened her doors to visitors in 2005,” noted Playle.
The highlight of our museum visit was a 45-minute cruise on a Hacker Craft. Built in 2005, it had been donated by the original owner, a CEO at Time Warner. Sitting in the back as water sprayed on either side we felt like royalty. The ride was smooth as silk.
Where to Quench Your Adult Thirst
A short drive outside Clayton we spied Coyote Moon Vineyards and went in for a tasting. Owned by the multi-generation Randazzo family, the winery specializes in northern climate vinifera, including Marquette, Frontenac, Brianna, and La Crescent grapes. These varietals are the product of the University of Minnesota’s grape-growing project and they are hardy. The grapes are hand-harvested and the love that goes into each bottle is palpable. My favorite was the White Blend, with La Crescent and Frontenac Blanc grapes, citrusy and crisp.
Another boozy enterprise we stumbled upon was St. Lawrence Spirits. Founded by father and son team Jody and Bill Garrett in 2015, the operation was named New York State Distillery of the Year from 2019-21. Its vodka, gin, absinthe, moonshine, whiskey, and bourbon is made with St. Lawrence River water. They had a retail/tasting outlet in downtown Clayton, and we were told the distillery is just outside town in a 1937 manor that was once a nunnery. I liked the distillery’s catchy slogan, “The Spirit of the River in Every Bottle.”
Our last stop was in Thousand Island Park, just across the bridge from Clayton. After picking up bikes from Boomerang rentals we pedaled around the former Methodist camp community. Founded in 1875, it was filled with colourful Victorian homes and even had its own hotel, restaurant and concert hall.
Want to dip your toe into river life? 1000 Islands is the place.
Stellar Food & Drink
Wood Boat Brewery: By the Antique Boat Museum with cool brews and excellent brick oven pizza.
Bella’s Bakery & Bistro: Best bet for breakfast with fresh baked goods and riverside views.
Di Prinzio’s Kitchen & Cocktails: Italian riverside dining with pasta and house meatballs.
The Channelside: Watch the freighters go by as you munch on fish and chips or a truffle lobster Mac & Cheese.
The Hops Spot: Burger Bar and Poutinerie with some of the best fries I have ever tasted.
Where to Lay Your Head
Harbor Hotel: The go-to hotel on the water. Starbucks dispensers on every floor in the morning. Fun patio with firepits and beautiful sunset viewing.
