Travel in Saskatchewan means more than wide skies and endless prairie. Here, the stories are deep, the food is rooted in place, and the people invite you not just to visit, but to listen. Over four days, I traced a path through forests, rivers, valleys, and museums—meeting chefs, elders, and storytellers who revealed a province both grounded in its past and alive with possibility.

Batoche: Echoes of Resistance

I was with a group of journalists and accompanied by Saskatchewan Métis chef Jenni Lessard, who added her stories and delicious cuisine to our adventure. The journey began at Batoche National Historic Site, an hour’s drive north of Saskatoon. It was where the Métis fought to protect their land and culture in 1885. Parks Canada interpreter Adam Matheson framed the landscape not just as a battlefield, but as a living reminder of resilience.

“This is where the Métis defended their way of life,” he explained, standing before the modest church of St. Antoine, built just six months before the fighting. Baptisms, weddings, and funerals once echoed within its walls. Today, it stands as a testament to a community that was neither fully European settler nor fully Indigenous, but something distinct—and too often displaced.

Displacement is a recurring theme at Batoche: Métis families who farmed riverfront strips saw their land surveyed and handed to Protestant newcomers. Many moved further west, carrying their culture with them. The annual “Back to Batoche” celebration is a vibrant resurgence of fiddle music, jigging, and traditional food that draws tens of thousands for four days every July.

On our visit, Chef Jenni offered puffed wheat squares, known locally as “Dainties.” Sweet, chewy, and unapologetically prairie, they felt like the perfect counterpoint to a heavy history—proof that culture is preserved not only in archives and monuments, but also in kitchens.

Flora Bora and the Fire Grill

Driving an hour-and-a-half north to Emma Lake, we stopped for lunch at Flora Bora Forest Lodging. A wilderness hideaway, it offers guests three luxe yurts complete with kitchens and bathrooms.  Barbequed brats and Saskatoon berries were on the menu, and we gathered to eat outdoors, surrounded by birdsong. We were joined by Flora Bora owner Karen Wasylyk, who recounted how her eco-retreat began with an ornithologist’s wedding in 2009.

“Since then, we’ve hosted everything—even Hallmark movies,” she said with a smile.

From there, we hopped in our van and drove to Saskatoon, passing from the green boreal forest into endless fields of golden wheat. Our accommodation was at Dakota Dunes Resort, owned and operated by the Whitecap Dakota First Nation. That night, dining at the hotel’s Moose Woods Home Fire Grill, we feasted on pickerel cheeks, steak, and candied fish.

A highlight of our stay at the resort was a cultural exchange with Whitecap Dakota First Nation Elder Freda Greer. She spoke of her life, from farming in Luseland to surviving residential school. Pointing to a quilt adorned with a star, she explained its meaning: “It symbolizes health, healing, happiness, hope, and love. The quilt means a lot to me. It’s my mother’s love, my aunties’ love.”

At 76, Freda now works at the community health center. “I also quilt,” she added softly. “I didn’t know this one was a gift for me when I first saw them making it.” Her words, like her presence, stitched past and present together with remarkable grace.

Canoes and Culture

The next day carried us onto the South Saskatchewan River, guided by paddlers Dru Swain (Whitecap Dakota) and Kheaven Dumais (French Cree). The rhythm of paddling recalled the voyageurs who once sang to keep time along these same waters. The outing wasn’t just an exercise; it was cultural sharing in motion.

Evening brought us back to Dakota Dunes Resort, where the sense of connection—between land, water, and people—felt as essential as rest.

Dinosaurs and Draft Beer

If Saskatchewan’s cultural stories reach back centuries, its natural ones stretch millions of years. A two-and-a-half-hour drive south brought us to Regina, where we lunched at Pile O’ Bones Brewing Co. (the Oxpecker ale being a crowd favorite). Then it was time to go and meet Regina’s resident monster.

Scotty, the world’s largest T Rex, resides at the Royal Saskatchewan Museum. Discovered in 1991, the fossil took nearly 20 years to excavate from ironstone. In 2019, it went on display, instantly becoming a star.

“The team celebrated with a bottle of scotch, and the name stuck,” our museum docent explained.

Towering above us, Scotty offered a reminder that this land has always held giants, both literal and figurative. After all, Tommy Douglas, the premier for 17 years, is the one who brought universal health care to the country. And singer-songwriter Joni Mitchell’s music is infused with nods to her home province, especially on Songs of a Prairie Girl.

Policing the Prairie

The following morning began at the RCMP Heritage Centre, where director Mark Veneziano traced the history of Canada’s national police force. From its origins as the Northwest Mounted Police in 1873 to a force with 20,000 officers today, the RCMP’s story is both complex and evolving.

The most poignant space at the centre was the “Place of Reflection,” an outdoor medicine wheel-shaped memorial for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Two-Spirit people. Designed by Indigenous artist Lyndon De Dendis, it is awakened each May and put to rest in October.

“This is a place to mourn, but also to commit to reconciliation,” Veneziano said.

The RCMP, like the province itself, carries histories both proud and painful. The non-profit centre operates independently and does not dig much into the hurtful past of intolerance that we read about in today’s news.  But it does provide context on the birth of the force and its current status.  

A Meal in the Valley

From Regina, we wound into the Qu’Appelle Valley, where Chef Jenni Lessard welcomed us into her home in Lumsden. The table was filled with rainbow trout, bannock, and coffee-baked lentils, paired with locally produced Wolf Willow fruit wine.

The meal felt less like a lunch stop and more like a family gathering. Food and stories blended seamlessly, each nourishing in its own way.

Closing the Circle

Our trip ended in Saskatoon, with a final dinner at the Alt Hotel. Around the table, laughter and stories filled the air, the threads of the past few days weaving into something whole.

Saskatchewan revealed itself as more than a destination. It is a place where food, history, and culture are inextricably linked; where resilience is not a relic of the past, but a living, breathing force. From the fiddle music of Batoche to the quilt of Elder Freda, from Scotty’s prehistoric bones to the bannock on Chef Jenni’s table, this journey offered a tapestry stitched with health, healing, happiness, hope, and love.

I’ve always believed that some of the best travel experiences happen in the small towns that sit just a little off the beaten path. On a recent trip, I set my sights on Gananoque, Ontario—the so-called “Gateway to the Thousand Islands.” Settled on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, this vital little town combines the beauty of the water with history, adventure, and plenty of warm Canadian hospitality.

Checking In

I arrived in Gananoque in the late afternoon, after a three-hour drive from Toronto. My base for the trip was the Comfort Inn & Suites Thousand Islands Harbour District, conveniently located just steps from the Gananoque Municipal Marina and a short walk to Joel Stone Beach.

The Play’s the Thing

After settling in, I set out for an evening at the Thousand Islands Playhouse, a local theater perched right on the waterfront. That night’s performance of The Drawer Boy was captivating. What made the evening even more special was the intermission. Guests stepped onto the balcony to see the sunset, and we ooh-ed and awed at the softly glowing sky. The theatre presents a majority of Canadian productions, with titles that target both adults and families. Plays run from summer to late fall. I was told that a second smaller venue, the Firehall Theatre, runs shows, community events, and concerts throughout the year.

A Thousand Islands Adventure

After the hotel’s complimentary hot breakfast, I walked down to the City Cruises dock at the foot of Main Street. With my passport and water bottle in hand, I was ready for a five-hour Thousand Islands cruise with a stop at Boldt Castle on the U.S. side of the border.

There’s something magical about gliding past the islands—some large enough to hold grand mansions, others barely big enough for a single tree. Our boat weaved between Canadian and American waters, the border invisible and the scenery captivating.

The highlight was stepping onto Heart Island, home to Boldt Castle. Built in the early 1900s by millionaire George Boldt for his wife, the castle is a storybook mansion with turrets, stained-glass windows, and even heart-shaped details hidden throughout the property. Sadly, Boldt’s wife passed away before the castle was completed, and for decades it fell into disrepair. Today, thanks to ongoing restorations funded by visitor admission fees, much of the castle has been restored to its original grandeur. Standing there, I couldn’t help but feel the bittersweet mix of romance and history that lingers in the air.

A View from Above

Back in Gananoque, I traded the water for the skies and hopped on a chopper with 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours. The 30-minute scenic flight took off from a small airfield just north of town. I felt a rush of excitement as the ground fell away beneath us. From above, the islands looked like emeralds scattered across a sapphire surface, connected by the impressive Thousand Islands International Bridge, which spans the river between Canada and the U.S. It was one of those bucket-list moments—the kind you know you’ll remember forever.

That evening, I joined locals for dinner at the Maple Leaf Restaurant, a cozy spot on King Street East run by Czech owners. Their schnitzel is legendary, and after a day of sightseeing, it hit the spot. Gananoque’s downtown is full of dining options, but this one stood out for its hearty meals and welcoming atmosphere.

Paddling the Rideau

On my third day, I traded engines and propellers for paddles. About 20 minutes from Gananoque lies Chaffey’s Lock, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Rideau Canal system. I joined Rideau Tours for an afternoon of kayaking, gliding across calm waters surrounded by tree-lined shores and quaint cottages. The company also offers cycling, with easy access to the Cataraqui Trail, part of the TransCanada Trail system.

There was something wonderfully restorative about paddling at my own pace, pausing now and then to watch as boats passed through the working lock system that has been operating for over 190 years. I had already eaten, but next time I’ll order a picnic lunch from the tour company and enjoy a nosh by the water after my paddle.

That night, I headed to Stonewater Gastro Pub, where live music and a lively crowd made for a perfect nightcap. Gananoque may be a small town, but it certainly doesn’t lack for entertainment.

Saying Goodbye

As I packed up to leave, I couldn’t help but feel that Gananoque had offered me the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. From floating past castles on the St. Lawrence to soaring above the islands in a helicopter, from quiet paddles on the Rideau Canal to evenings spent enjoying theater and live music, my mind and my body felt roundly satisfied.

Gananoque may be small, but it’s a town with a big heart—much like the island castle that has come to symbolize the region. And as I drove back toward Toronto, I found myself already planning my next visit to the Thousand Islands.

A Few Tips

• For a morning coffee outing, Laverenes and Pistachio are two great local cafés.
• If you’re planning the Boldt Castle cruise, don’t forget your passport—you’ll be stepping onto American soil.
• Gananoque isn’t just about water and outdoor adventure—it’s also a town rich in history and culture. You can visit the Thousand Islands Boat Museum and the 1000 Islands History Museum to learn more about the area’s maritime past.