A brasserie, a bistro, cutting-edge local fare, and eateries steeped in tradition. I was on a foodie mission on a recent trip to Montreal.
First stop was Restaurant L’Express. I’d been there before and was craving its poached salmon while my husband was lusting for its steak tartare. It’s been around since 1980 and has staunchly stood its ground as one of the city’s most iconic French brasseries. I love it because the menu stays true to its origins. Steak tartare, hanger steak with shallot butter and fries, poached salmon, and duck confit are some of the dishes that founders Pierre Villeneuve and Colette Brossoit first decided to dish up in the style of a classic Parisian neighborhood hangout. And that’s why people like me keep coming back.
My poached salmon was silky and succulent. My husband’s steak tartare was robust with a gutsy protein punch. The frites, which he shared, were crispy, double-cooked, and divine.
Dessert was also a treat. Flottante (floating island) is one of France’s classic desserts. A cloud of meringue drifted on a sea of Crème Anglaise (vanilla custard) encased in brittle caramel and surrounded by toasted almonds. Heavenly.
Located in the Plateau on Rue Saint-Denis, Restaurant L’Express attracts everyone from hipsters to politicians to visitors like myself. Surrounded by black-and-white tiled floors, mirrored walls, leather banquettes, and a zinc bar, I felt cozy and just a little continental. White tablecloths and waiters clad in traditional bistro uniforms of black pants, white shirts, and long white aprons put a bow on the European vibe.
Vin Mon Lapin was another restaurant on my radar. Launched in 2017 by the Joe Beef restaurant group, it was bought by husband-and-wife Vanya Filipovic (sommelier) and Marc-Olivier Frappier (chef) in 2019. The couple had already been running the restaurant’s wine and kitchen programs. Chef Jessica Noël is also part of the culinary leadership and helped contribute to the #1 ranking on Canada’s Best 100 Restaurants’ list in 2023 and 2024. It dropped to #2 in 2025, but is still a podium winner in my eyes. The menu changes depending on the season, and we were there in March, so we noshed on a spread of root vegetables and an array of small dishes. My favorite was the scallop mousse sandwich called a Croque-Petoncle, light and crisp. We also had a couple of larger plates, including Tagliatelle au Couteau, Ragu d’agneau à moelle, and Trout Montebello. Depending on the time of year, the server told us you might see morels, asparagus, sea urchin, and snow crab on the menu.
The majority of the wines offered came from natural, low-intervention producers.
Looking around at the décor, it felt homey and casual. Tables were close together and didn’t sport tablecloths. Folks were wearing comfortable garb, and the vibe was more friendly dinner party than formal fine dining.
Beware, though, you have to book in advance. We called a month out and got a 5:30 pm seating. Not exactly a sophisticated time for dinner, but this place is hot and in demand.
Located in Little Italy, it was really close to Jean-Talon market (where many of the menu ingredients are sourced).
The next day, Jean-Talon Market was bustling when I arrived around 10 am. Coffee was my first stop, a yummy latte from Parma Café. Next, it was time to pick up maple syrup, since Quebec produces the lion’s share of the golden ambrosia. Then on to a La Fromagerie Hamel for Quebec cheeses, hard to find in Ontario. I was thrilled to find my favorites, soft, gentle rounds from Le Detour near the New Brunswick border. The market produce looked amazing, but the only thing that I decided would travel well back to Ontario was apples. I picked up a bag of Empires that were sweet, tart, firm, and delicious. The market also offered butchers with great-looking sausages and fishmongers, but none of that travels well. It’s open 7 days a week from 8 am to 6 pm, and on Sundays until 5 pm.
For a sweet pick-me-up, I headed to Pasticceria Alati-Caserta, also in Little Italy. I go weak-kneed around Sicilian cannoli and lined up for a bag of these delicious confections. I chose the Skor bar filling. Yum! The bakery, owned by the Caldarone family, has been delighting customers for 50 years. The loyal clientele swear by its cakes (cassata verde, tiramisu), cookies, and special occasion treats. In front of me, a woman bought 12 huge lobster tail pastries, also known as sfogliatelle. I could see from people’s orders that this was the spot to load up on crowd-pleasing desserts.
Our accommodation was the Place d’Armes Hotel in Old Montreal. One night, we decided to try the on-site eatery, Brasserie 701. The décor was Parisian glam, and the classic food matched the setting – steak frites, beef and salmon tartare, duck confit, and French onion soup. The food was beautifully done, and it was a convenient spot to regroup after a day of sightseeing.
On our final night, we had to visit Chalet Bar-B-Q. This legendary NDG rotisserie opened in 1944 and is famous for its charcoal roasting methods. Filled with warm wood paneling, snug booths, and a mouth-watering aroma, I was charmed from the outset. Our waitress was super friendly, and the rotisserie chicken and fries were outstanding. Plus, I got a cup of coleslaw that balanced out the heaviness of the meal. This place is vintage Montreal, old school, and without any attempt at modernization. I loved that. The price is right, and I even took some of my meal back to the hotel since the portions were so generous.
I couldn’t go home without a bag of wood-fired bagels, made the Montreal way – hand-rolled and boiled in honey-sweetened water. They are smaller, sweeter, and denser than the New York-style version. The city has two bagel havens to choose from. The original is Fairmount Bagel, which has been open since 1919. The other is St.-Viateur Bagel, opened in 1957 by folks with Fairmont Bagel connections. It’s up for debate which is best. I chose St.-Viateur and drove home surrounded by the fragrance of fresh-baked goodness.
Montreal has so much for foodies to explore. This trip revealed the tip of the iceberg to me. Another trip is being planned!
Other iconic Montreal foodie spots
- Joe Beef – world-famous, decadent French-Canadian cooking.
- Schwartz’s Deli – legendary smoked meat sandwiches since 1928.
- Au Pied de Cochon – Culinary landmark of Quebec cuisine.
- Beauty’s Restaurant – Brunch classic since 1942.
- Wilensky’s Light Lunch – serving bologna-salami sandwiches since 1932.
