Winnipeg is alive with stories. Every corner I turned on a recent trip to Manitoba seemed to hold a piece of history, a celebration of culture, or a reminder of resilience. I thought I was just coming for sunshine and festivals, but what I found was a city that tells its stories boldly—through art, food, gardens, and dance.
Reclaiming Power and Place
One of my first stops was the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, where I viewed Only in Darkness Can We See the Stars, an installation by Jaime Black-Morsette and KC Adams. At the centre of the piece is the white dress of Sky Woman, surrounded by empty red dresses. Some of the dresses bore clay handprints—haunting, and grounding, connecting back to the land.
Standing there, I felt the silence of loss but also the strength of reclamation. It wasn’t just an exhibit; it was a call to care, to remember, and to act.
Love in a Dangerous Time
Another exhibit in the Museum, Love in a Dangerous Time, pulled me into a different story—Canada’s government and RCMP “LGBT Purge.” The immersive “Dark Space” was designed as an interrogation room, cold and unsettling, a reminder of the fear so many lived through. But what struck me most was the resilience. Survivors not only fought back but paved the way for future generations. I even had the chance to ask questions of survivors through an interactive voice interface—such a moving way to connect with living history.
A Day at The Leaf
After such heavy stories, I needed something uplifting. The Leaf in Assiniboine Park was where I found it. I wandered through the Indigenous Peoples’ Garden, breathing in the scent of sage and cedar, pausing at the fire node, and imagining the elders who gather here to share stories.
Inside, I lost track of time watching Canada’s largest indoor waterfall cascade down in the tropical biome, then stepped into the dry heat of the Mediterranean garden filled with cacti. It felt like traveling across continents in an afternoon.
Dinner at Gather Craft Kitchen & Bar that evening was unforgettable. Chef Mike de Groot’s menu is seasonal and creative, and I couldn’t resist the saffron gnocchi with beurre blanc. The herbs came straight from The Leaf’s gardens, and the cocktail I had—bright with garden-fresh flavours—was the best way to end a day rooted in culture and nature.
A Trip to Gimli
A one-hour drive north of the city took me to Gimli for the Icelandic Festival of Manitoba, or Íslendingadagurinn. Between Viking battles, dunking competitions, and stories of huldufólk—the “hidden people” of Iceland—it felt like I’d been transported. There was even a Viking Village peopled by re-enactors who demonstrated food preparation, crafts, and games played hundreds of years ago.
At the Iceland Heritage Museum, I learned how Gimli grew to be the largest Icelandic community outside Iceland. In the late 1870s, natural disasters and limited resources drove people to seek a place where they could thrive and maintain their language and culture. Canada offered that and, for a time, even allowed them to self-govern. With a fishing heritage, they were also drawn to Gimli since it sits on Lake Winnipeg.
The lake is home to abundant populations of walleye (pickerel), perch, and whitefish. At Kris’ Fish & Chips the golden fried pickeral and crispy chips were a highlight.
The whole town was buzzing with pride in its Icelandic roots. It’s no wonder “Gimli” translates to “Heaven on Earth.”
Stories at the WAG-Qaumajuq
Back in the city, the Winnipeg Art Gallery-Qaumajuq pulled me in with its incredible collection of Inuit art. I was able to touch screens that let me search by artist and region. The story of Sedna, the sea goddess with a whale’s tail who is sometimes kind, sometimes cruel, was an ongoing theme in the soapstone sculptures. Outside, I found myself captivated by Tuniigusiia/ The Gift by Goota Ashoona, a single-stone sculpture made of Verde Guatemala marble. It depicted a grandmother teaching her granddaughter to throat sing. As powerful as it was tender. The artwork was commissioned by the Manitoba Teachers’ Society “to honour teachers all around us—in the land and in our lives—who reveal the truth, wisdom and beauty that connect us all.”
Cheese, Wine, and Whimsy at Sharecuterie
One afternoon, I ducked into Sharecuterie, a café dreamed up by Cassandra Carreiro. Imagine whimsical décor, vintage French music, and charcuterie boards that are as photogenic as they are delicious. A former psychiatric nurse of Indigenous-Portuguese heritage, Carreiro embraced her passion for beautiful meats and cheeses during the pandemic. And just like that, a new business was born. It really took off, and she moved from her home kitchen to the current bricks-and-mortar location in 2023.
I joined one of her workshops, where she showed us how to make roses out of salami (yes, roses!) and how to layer cheeses and fruit for maximum “wow.” We nibbled smoked Gouda, port wine, Derby cheddar, and fresh fruit, finishing with a sprinkle of edible flowers. It felt like art class, but tastier.
Folklorama Nights
To wrap up my Winnipeg summer journey, I dove into Folklorama, the city’s iconic multicultural festival. At the Métis Pavilion, fiddlers and jig dancers stomped so hard I half believed the stories about wearing out moccasins in one night. The Filipino and Tamil pavilions dazzled with costumes and choreography, and everywhere I went, I was welcomed with food, music, and laughter.
A Few Food and Beverage Highlights
At The Forks, you can eat and drink to your heart’s content from a variety of vendors. The scones and baked goods were outstanding at Tall Grass Prairie Bread. For local craft beer and wine from around the world, The Common had 20 brews and 20 vintages on offer. There were lots of places to grab a snack or meal, plus upstairs, I did a little shopping for made-in-Manitoba products.
Le Croissant, a French bakery in the Francophone St. Boniface neighborhood, had some of the butteriest, most flaky croissants I have ever tasted.
Another great breakfast spot was Roasted Nomad, which serves generous portions of eggs Benedict, blueberry pancakes with caramel and bananas, and huevos rancheros.
By the end of my trip, I realized Winnipeg isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place that tells stories. Some are heavy, some joyful, some delicious, but all are deeply human. Every season has its own narrative. No matter when you go, you’ll leave not only with memories but with a new sense of connection to culture, history, and community.
